Category Archives: Car

Automatic 12 Volt Lamp Fader

The lamps are faded by varying the duty cycle so that higher power incandescent lamps can be used without much power loss. The switching waveform is generated by comparing two linear ramps of different frequencies. The higher frequency ramp waveform (about 75 Hz.) is produced from one section of the LM324 quad op-amp wired as a Schmitt trigger oscillator. The lower frequency ramp controls the fading rate and is generated from the upper two op-amps similar to the “fading eyes” circuit. The two ramp waveforms at pins 9 and 1 are compared by the 4th op-amp which generates a varying duty cycle rectangular waveform to drive the output transistor. A second transistor is used to invert the waveform so that one group of lamps will fade as the other group brightens. The 2N3053 will handle up to 500 milliamps so you could connect 12 strings of 4 LEDs each (48 LEDs) with a 220 ohm resistor in series with each group of 4 LEDs. This would total about 250 milliamps. Or you can use three 4 volt, 200 mA Xmas tree bulbs in series. For higher power 12 volt automobile lamps, the transistor will need to be replaced with a MOSFET that can handle several amps of current. See the drawing below the schematic for possible hookups.

[img:15bbfdd63c]http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/eyes3.gif[/img:15bbfdd63c]

Copyright 2003 Bill Bowden

Automotive 12V to +-20V converter (for audio amplifier)

The limitation of car supply voltage (12V) forces to convert the voltages to higher in order to power audio amplifiers.

In fact the max audio power x speaker (with 4 ohm impedance) using 12V is (Vsupply+ – Vsupply-)^2/(8*impedance) 12^2/32 = 4.5Watts per channel, that is laughable…

For powering correctly an amplifier the best is to use a symmetric supply with a high voltage differential. for example +20 – -20 = 40Volts
in fact
40^2/32 = 50 Watts per channel that is respectable.

This supply is intended for two channels with 50W max each (of course it depends on the amplifier used). Though it can be easily scaled up or the voltages changed to obtain different values.

[b:bfe129f0c8]Overview – How it works[/b:bfe129f0c8]
It is a classic push-pull design , taking care to obtain best symmetry (to avoid flux walking). Keep in mind that this circuit will adsorb many amperes (around 10A) so take care to reinforce power tracks with lots of solder and use heavy wires from the battery or the voltage will drop too much at the input.

The transformer must be designed to reduce skin effect, it can be done using several insulated magnet wire single wires soldered together but conducting separately. The regulation is done both by the transformer turn ratio and varying the duty cycle. In my case i used 5+5 , 10+10 turns obtaining a step up ratio of 2 (12->24) and downregulating the voltage to 20 via duty cycle dynamic adjust performed by the PWM controller TL494.

The step-up ratio has to be a little higher to overcome diode losses, winding resistance and so on and input voltage drop due to wire resistance from battery to converter.

[b:bfe129f0c8]Transformer design[/b:bfe129f0c8]
The transformer must be of correct size in order to carry the power needed, on the net there are many charts showing the power in function of frequency and core size for a given topology. My transformer size is 33.5 mm lenght, 30.0 height and 13mm width with a cross section area of 1,25cm^2, good for powers around 150W at 50khz.

The windings , especially the primary must be heavy gauged, but instead of using a single wire it is better to use
multiple wires in parallel each insulated from the other except at the ends. This will reduce resistance increase due to skin effect. The primary and secondary windings are centertapped, this means that you have to wind 5 turns, centertap and 5 windings again. The same goes for the secondary, 10 turns, centertap and 10 turns again.

The important thing is that the transformer MUST not have air gaps or the leakage inductance will throw spikes on the switches overheating them and giving a voltage higher than expected by turn ratio prediction, so if your voltage output (at fully duty cycle) is higher than Vin*N2/N1 – Vdrop diode, your transformer has gap (of course permit me saying you that you are BLIND if you miss it), and this is accompanied with a drastical efficiency reduction. Use non-gapped E cores or toroids (ferrite).

[b:bfe129f0c8]Output diodes, capacitors and filter inductor[/b:bfe129f0c8]
For rectification i preferred to use shottky diodes since they have low forward voltage drop, and are incredibly fast.
I used the cheap 1N5822, the best alternative for low voltage converters (3A for current capability).

The output capacitors are 4700uF 25V, not very big, since at high frequency the voltage ripple is most due to internal cap ESR fortunately general purpose lytics have enough low esr for a small ripple (some tens of millivolts). Also at high duty cycle they are feed almost with pure DC, giving small ripple. The filter inductor on the secondary centertap furter increases the ripple and helps the regulation in asymmetrical transients

[b:bfe129f0c8]Power switch and driving[/b:bfe129f0c8]
I used d2pak 70V 80A 0.004 ohms ultrafets (Fairchind semiconductor), very expensive and hard to find. In principle any fet will work, but the lower the on-resistance, the lower the on-state conduction losses, the lower the heat produced on the fets, the higher efficiency and smaller the heatsinks needed. With this fets i am able to run the fets with small heatsinks and without fan at full rated power (100W) with an efficiency of 82% and perceptible heating and with small heating at 120W (some degrees) (the core starts to saturate and the efficiency is a bit lower, around 75%)

Try to use the lowest resistance mosfet you can put your dirty hand 🙂 on or the efficiency will be lower than rated and you will need even a small fan. The fet driver i used is the TPS2811P, from Texas instruments, rated for 2A peak and 200ns. Is important that the gate drive is optimized for minimal inductance or the switching losses will be higher and you risk noise coupling from other sources. Personally i think that twisted pair wires (gate and ground/source) are the best to keep the inductance small. Place the gate drive resistor near the Mosfet, not near the IC.

[b:bfe129f0c8]Controller[/b:bfe129f0c8]
I used the trusty TL494 PWM controller with frequency set at around 40-60 Khz adjustable with a potentiometer. I also implemented the soft start (to reduce powerup transients). The adjust potentiometer (feedback) must be set to obtain the desired voltage. The output signals is designed with two pull-up resistors on the collector of the PWM chip output transistor pulling them to ground each cycle alternatively. This signal is sent to the dual inverting MOSFET driver (TPS2811P) obtaining the correct waveform.

[b:bfe129f0c8]Power and filtering[/b:bfe129f0c8]
How i said before the power tracks must be heavy gauged or you will scarify regulation (since it depends of transformer step up ratio and input voltage) and efficiency too. Don’t forget to place a 10A (or 15A) fuse on the input because the car batteries can supply very high currents in case of shorts and this will save you face from a mosfet explosion in case of failture or short, remember to place a fuse also on the battery side to increase the safety (accidental shorts->fire, battery explosion, firemen, police and lawyers around). Input filtering is important, use at least 20000uF 16V in capacitors, a filter inductor would be useful too (heavygauged) but i decided to leave it..

[b:bfe129f0c8]Final considerations[/b:bfe129f0c8]
This supply given me up to 85% efficiency (sometimes even 90% at some loads) with an input of 12V because i observed all these tricks to keep it functional and efficient. An o-scope would be useful, to watch the ripple and gate signals (watching for overshoots), but if you follow these guidelines you will avoid these problems.

The cross regulation is good but keep in mind that only the positive output is fully regulated, and the negative only follows it. Place a small load between the negative rail and ground (a 3mm led with a 4.7Kohm resistor) to avoid the negative rail getting lower then -20V. If the load is asymmetric you can have two cases:

-More load on positive rail-> no problems, the negative rail can go lower than -20V, but it is not a real issue for an audio amplifier.
-More load on negative rail-> voltage drop on negative rail (to ground) especially if the load is only on the negative rail.

Fortunately audio amplifiers are quite symmetrical as a load, and the output filter inductor/capacitors helps to maintain the regulation good during asymmetrical transients (Basses)

[color=red:bfe129f0c8][b:bfe129f0c8]ATTENTION[/b:bfe129f0c8]

Keep in mind that THIS IS NOT A PROJECT FOR A BEGINNER, IT CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS IN CASE OF PROBLEMS, NEVER BRIDGE, BYPASS OR AVOID FUSES THESE WILL SAVE YOUR BACK FROM FIRE RISK.[/color:bfe129f0c8]

Copyright Jonathan Filippi – [url]www.cool-science.tk[/url]Parts:Resistors
2 R1,R2 = 10
4 R3,R4,R6,R7 = 1k
1 R5 = 22k
1 R8 = 4.7k
1 R9 = 100k

Capacitors
2 C1,C2 = 10000uF
2 C3,C6 = 47u
1 C4 = 10u
3 C5,C7,C14 = 100n
2 C8,C9 = 4700u
1 C12 = 1n
1 C13 = 2.2u

Integrated Circuits
1 U1 = TL494
1 U2 = TPS2811P

Transistors
2 Q1,Q2 = FDB045AN

Diodes
4 D1-D4 = 1N5822
1 D5 = 1N4148

Miscellaneous
1 FU1 = 10A
1 L1 = 10u
1 L2 = FERRITE BEAD
1 RV1 = 2.2k
1 RV2 = 24k
1 T1 = TRAN-3P3S

Simple car battery tester

This circuit uses the popular and easy to find LM3914 IC. This IC is very simple to drive, needs no voltage regulators (it has a built in voltage regulator) and can be powered from almost every source.

[b:7bd0f5dac2]This circuit is very easy to explain:[/b:7bd0f5dac2]
When the test button is pressed, the Car battery voltage is feed into a high impedance voltage divider. His purpose is to divide 12V to 1,25V (or lower values to lower values). This solution is better than letting the internal voltage regulator set the 12V sample voltage to be feed into the internal voltage divider simply because it cannot regulate 12V when the voltage drops lower (linear regulators only step down). Simply wiring with no adjust, the regulator provides stable 1,25V which is fed into the precision internal resistor cascade to generate sample voltages for the internal comparators. Anyway the default setting let you to measure voltages between 8 and 12V but you can measure even from 0V to 12V setting the offset trimmer to 0 (but i think that under 9 volt your car would not start). There is a smoothing capacitor (4700uF 16V) it is used to adsorb EMF noise produced from the ignition coil if you are measuring the battery during the engine working. Diesel engines would not need it, but i’m not sure. If you like more a point graph rather than a bar graph simply disconnect pin 9 on the IC (MODE) from power. The calculations are simple (default)

For the first comparator the voltage is : 0,833 V corresponding to 8 V
* * * * * voltage is : 0,875 V corresponding to 8,4 V

..
for the last comparator the voltage is : 1,25 V corresponding to 12 V

Have fun, learn and don’t let you car battery discharge… 😉

Copyright Jonathan Filippi – [url]www.cool-science.tk[/url]

HiJack Alarm

This circuit is designed primarily for the situation where a hijacker forces the driver from the vehicle. If a door is opened while the ignition is switched on, the circuit will trip. After a few minutes delay – when the thief is at a safe distance – the alarm will sound and the engine will fail.

33-54-hijack

Continue reading

Car Alarm and Immobilizer

This circuit features exit and entry delays, an instant alarm zone, an intermittent siren output and automatic reset. By adding external relays you can immobilize the vehicle and flash the lights.

[b:d57540ce28]Notes:[/b:d57540ce28]
The alarm is "set" by opening Sw1. It can be any small 1-amp single-pole change-over switch – but for added security you could use a key-switch. Once Sw1 is opened you have about 10 to 15 seconds to get out of the vehicle and close the door behind you. When you return and open the door the buzzer will sound. You have 10 to 15 seconds to move Sw1 to the "off" position. If you fail to do so, the siren will sound. The output to the siren is intermittent – it switches on and off. The speed at which it switches on and off is set by C6 and R10. While any trigger-switch remains closed, the siren will continue to sound. About 2 to 3 minutes after all of the switches have been opened, the circuit will reset.

One of the inputs is connected to the vehicle’s existing door-switches. This provides the necessary exit and entry delays. It’s usually sufficient to connect a SINGLE wire to just ONE of the door switches – they’re generally all connected in parallel with the return through the chassis. You can add extra normally-open switches to the door-circuit if you wish; but note that any additional switches will have to be able to carry the current required by your vehicle’s interior light.

Any number of normally-open switches may be connected – in parallel – to the "Instant" input. Since they don’t have to carry the current for the interior light, you can use any type of switch you like. You may want an instant alarm on the bonnet, the boot, the rear-hatch, the rear-doors etc. It doesn’t matter if these already have switches connected to the door-circuit. Simply fit a second switch and connect it to the instant input. It will override the delay circuit. You can use the chassis for the return. However, a ground terminal is provided if – for any reason – you need to run a separate return wire for either zone. If you’re not using the instant zone then leave out Q2, R3, R4, R5 & D3.

The exit delay is set by R1 & C1, the entry delay by R9 & C4, and the reset time by R7 & C3. The precise length of any time period depends on the characteristics of the actual components used – especially the tolerance of the capacitors and the exact switching points of the Cmos Gates. However, for this type of application really accurate time periods are unnecessary.

The circuit board and switches must be protected from the elements. Dampness or condensation will cause malfunction. Fit a 1-amp in-line fuse AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE to your power source. This is VERY IMPORTANT. The fuse is there to protect the wiring – not the alarm. Exactly how the system is fitted will depend on the make of your particular vehicle. Consequently, I CANNOT give any further advice on installation.

The circuit is designed to use an electronic Siren drawing 300 to 400mA. It’s not usually a good idea to use the vehicle’s own Horn because it can be easily located and disconnected. However, if you choose to use the Horn, remember that the alarm relay is too small to carry the necessary current. Connect the coil of a suitably rated relay to the "Siren" output. This can then be used to sound the Horn, flash the lights etc.

See car_lay.png and cut.png for layout and cutting drawings

[b:d57540ce28]Immobilizer[/b:d57540ce28]
A schematic of the immobilizer is also included, car_immob.png.

If YOU decide to proceed, you will need to use the highest standard of materials and workmanship. Remember that the relay MUST be large enough to handle the current required by your ignition system. Choose one specifically designed for automobiles – it will be protected against the elements and will give the best long-term reliability. You don’t want it to let you down on a cold wet night – or worse still – in fast moving traffic!!! Please note that I am UNABLE to help any further with either the choice of a suitable relay – or with advice on its installation.

When you turn-off the ignition, the relay will de-energize and the second set of contacts (RLA2) will break the ignition circuit – automatically immobilizing the vehicle. When the ignition is switched on again the relay will not energize; and the vehicle’s ignition circuit will remain broken. You must press Sw2 to energize the relay. It then latches itself on using the first set of contacts (RLA1); while the second set of contacts (RLA2) complete the connection to the ignition circuit.

The design has a number of advantages. It operates automatically when you turn the ignition off – so there’s no need to remember to activate it. The relay uses no current while the ignition is off – so there’s no drain on the battery. To de-activate it you’ll need to have the ignition key and you’ll need to know the whereabouts of the push-switch. Sw2 only requires a single wire because its return is through the chassis. It carries no load other than the current required by the relay-coil. So almost any small "momentary-action, push-to-make" switch will do. For extra security Sw2 could be key-operated.

[url=http://uk.geocities.com/ronj_1217/auto.html]The Support Material[/url] for this alarm includes a step-by-step guide to the construction of the circuit-board, a parts list, and a detailed circuit description.

[b:d57540ce28]Links[/b:d57540ce28]
[url=http://uk.geocities.com/ronj_1217/auto.html]A detailed description[/url] of this circuit.
[url=http://uk.geocities.com/ronj_1217/circ.html]Ron J’s Circuit Page[/url] – updated regularly.
[url=http://uk.geocities.com/ronj_1217/mail.html]Write To Ron[/url]

Copyright Ron J